Mix masters
'It's in the nature of bartenders to try and create something'
– ladies and gentlemen, start your cocktail shakers!
By Maria C. Hunt
RESTAURANT CRITIC
December 9, 2004
For a long time, the bar seemed an afterthought at many restaurants,
a place where waiters picked up drinks and diners parked while
waiting for their tables.
But in the past few years, increasing attention has been paid
to cocktails. Straightforward orders like gin & tonic have
given way to Prohibition era-sounding names such as Golden Buddha,
Lemon Sipper and Grape Crush. It's fun, but as it turns out, a
restaurant can make more money on cocktails and wine than it does
on dinners. So it only makes sense that more focus has been placed
on these libations.
The status of people who tend bar has risen as well, the "Cocktail"
movie era notwithstanding. People who mix drinks aren't just bartenders
anymore; they're mixologists. Many have earned this title by using
natural fruit juices, house-infused vodkas and unusual ingredients
in their cocktails.
"I think it's in the nature of bartenders to try and create
something," said Peter LaVecchia, co-owner of Crush in Hillcrest.
"The more you're into it, the more you develop a sense for
flavors and things you can play with."
La Vecchia, who created drinks at Chive before opening Crush,
said some of his creations, like the Lemon Meringue Pie Martini,
Blue Crush and the Toasted Coconut Martini, evolved in stages.
At Fresh Seafood Restaurant & Bar in La Jolla, chef Matthew
Zappoli created a list of new martinis incorporating seasonal
flavors including pumpkin, Meyer lemon and pomegranate.
"I looked at some of the stuff I was using on the menu foodwise
and figured I'd turn it into a drink as well," said Zappoli.
"I think more and more people are into New York-style martini
lists."
Other cocktails are re-creations of classic drinks, such as the
Tears of the Prophet, a popular libation at Parallel 33. Co-owner
Robert Butterfield said Tears of the Prophet is a nonalcoholic
North African beverage made with orange and pomegranate juices,
mint and pomegranate seeds. Butterfield and chef Amiko Gubbins
created their own version with orange-flavored vodka and pomegranate
juice.
"We get at least six phone calls a week from people asking
how to make it," Butterfield said.
As long as you have a cocktail shaker, you can make like a mixologist
at home. Here are recipes for a few great local creations:
Tears of the Prophet
2 ounces Absolut Mandarin vodka
3 ounces pomegranate juice
Mint, for garnish
Combine vodka and pomegranate juice in a cocktail shaker with
ice and shake until chilled. Strain into a martini glass. Garnish
with mint.
– from Parallel 33 in Mission Hills
Toasted Coconut Martini
2 ounces coconut rum
1 1/2 ounce Frangelico
2 ounces pineapple juice
Toasted coconut flakes, for garnish
In a cocktail shaker, combine coconut rum, Frangelico and pineapple
juice with ice and shake until well-chilled. Strain into a martini
glass. Garnish with toasted coconut flakes.
– from Crush in Hillcrest
Lemon Sipper
4 fresh lemon slices
5 fresh mint leaves
1 ounce Limoncello Prosecco
Muddle lemon slices and mint leaves in a cocktail shaker. Add
Limoncello and ice cubes and shake until well-chilled. Pour contents
into a rocks glass and top off the glass with Prosecco.
– from Region in Hillcrest
Pumpkin Pie Martini
1 cup Libby's Easy Pumpkin Pie Mix
1 cup half-and-half
1 1/2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon molasses
2 ounces spiced rum, plus a little extra
A pinch of nutmeg
In a blender, puree the pumpkin pie mix together with half-and-half.
One cocktail uses 2 ounces of the pumpkin mixture; the rest can
be reserved in the refrigerator. Spread the brown sugar out on
a saucer. Dampen the rim of a martini glass with a little rum
and then coat the rim in brown sugar. Drizzle molasses in glass.
Set aside. In a cocktail shaker, combine 2 ounces pumpkin pie
base, 2 ounces spiced rum and ice. Shake until well-chilled and
then strain into the prepared martini glass. Sprinkle with a little
nutmeg and serve.
– from Fresh Seafood Restaurant & Bar in La Jolla
Grape Crush
1 ounce grape schnapps splash sweet & sour mix splash Razzmatazz
raspberry liqueur
2 to 3 ounces champagne or sparkling wine
In a cocktail shaker, combine grape schnapps, a splash of sweet
and sour and a splash of raspberry liqueur (otherwise the drink
will be very sweet) with ice. Shake until well-chilled and strain
into a martini glass. Fill the rest of the glass with champagne
or sparkling wine.
– from Crush in Hillcrest
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Buzz Magazine
crush has everything it takes to be a raving success, and it already
is
by Chef Gregory - 18, August 2003
Ask your favorite waiter or waitress where they’re going
to eat after work and the likely answer will be Crush. This latest
incarnation in a rather difficult restaurant spot on University
between Fifth and Sixth
(formerly The Nose) has everything it takes to be a raving success
– and it already is.
Restaurant veterans Cindy Bartelli and Peter La Vecchia were
both working managers at Chive in the Gaslamp. Each had decided
individually that they wanted to strike out on their own. After
a chance conversation between co-workers, a partnership was born.
Perhaps because of the owners’ prior connection to a downtown
establishment, the dining crowd at Crush is a hip and stylish
mix of gay and straight, young and not so young. There is an air
of good fun
throughout, with lively conversations rising above the very cool
jazz music playing softly in the back-ground.
About the only design element remaining from the old dining
room is the huge mirror covering its back wall. The full bar,
while still in the same location along one wall near the open
windows up front, has been completely re-done. Industrial arts
design and new color scheme of blue with accents of red and white
are actually somewhat reminiscent of the Pompidou Museum in France.
The reference, whether by accident or intent, is entirely appropriate
– because the menu is a collection of food art.
DINING
With knowledge and skills earned while apprenticing for demand-ing
chefs both European and American, Chef Dan Aguilar presents a
snappy seasonal menu of meat, seafood and vegetarian selections.
Portions and prices vary from Tapas style to full-sized meals.
Each menu item is a composition of tastes, textures and colors,
with carefully chosen herbs and spices applied by a delicate hand.
The menu is divided into four sections: Soup and Salad, Vegetar-ian,
Surf and Turf.
Seared Sea Scallops are absolutely fresh and browned just enough
to add a hint of flavor to the milk-white shellfish. While the
accompanying chile-mango butter and caramelized onion risotto
are both delicious, neither overpowers the delicate richness of
the meaty scallops.
GREMOLATA
Like so many Western recipes, gremolata came from Italy. It
is a condiment used primarily on meats and fish.
Originally a blend of finely chopped parsley with lemon peel,
garlic and salt, over time it has evolved. Now chefs create their
own versions. The basic requirement to call it a gremolata is
some green herb finely chopped and blended with another strong
flavor element.
Because of its intensity, it is used sparingly to add a lively
zest to food.
FIVE SPICE
Five Spice powder is a central ingredient originating in Chinese
cuisine. It is also a culinary expression of the very Eastern
concepts of Balance and Harmony.
As its name implies, it is a blend of five different spices,
each offering its part to create the combination of sweet, salty,
bitter, pungent and sour. Szechuan Peppercorns, Star Anise, Cumin,
Clove and Cinnamon are all combined in equal measure.
It has a very strong flavor and must be used sparingly. Over
the centuries, its use has been incorporated into many Asian cuisines.
It is the basic flavor element in Thai Barbecue, for instance.
While it is a very exotic flavoring, it is today readily available
in the Asian foods sections of most markets.
TAPAS
Tapas is a style of eating that originated in Spain. Traditionally
Tapas are served with aperitifs, sherry, and such. Small plates
are served usually with small portions of food.
It has evolved in this country to encompass practically anything
a chef wishes to prepare, just served in smaller portions. It
can be a fun way to sample a number of different tastes in one
meal.
The word “tapas” literally means tops, or lids.
Legend has it that the concept evolved in bars of Spain. Of course,
the sugar in sherry or other aperitifs can be a magnet for gnats
or other such beasts, particularly in the
heat of summer. Folks would ask for a small plate to cover their
drink and keep the flying creatures out.
Some genius got the bright idea of placing a few nibbles of
food on the plate, thereby giving the drinker a little sustenance
and making the little plates a profit center. It’s really
a delightful marriage of need and
marketing.
DINING
Five-Spice Dusted Ahi Tuna is ribbons of rare tuna resting atop
a colorful salad of thin wheat noodles with matchsticks of jicama
and carrot dressed with soy, rice vinegar, black sesame seeds
and red pepper flakes. Again, the zesty combination of is its
own taste treat but never eclipses the creamy sweetness of the
tuna. Five-Spice powder can overwhelm, but here is just a note
in the chord of flavors.
Seafood Chowder is a deeply flavored affair. The pleasant scent
of saffron, fish and shellfish hit our senses almost before the
bowl landed on our table. The first sip was an explosion of taste.
Mussels and pieces salmon sausage are floating with bits of potato,
tomato and onion in a golden soup. Shavings of fresh fennel, a
blush of saffron, and a splash of cream added multiple layers
of taste to this luscious soup.
The Chicken Sate is skewers of tender chicken meat set in a
peanut
sauce flecked with coconut. The chef’s subtle hand is evident
in this
dish. The sauce is the key element in a Sate – it’s
delicately flavored with
peanut and just slightly sweet. The accompanying warm cabbage
and red
onion slaw is at once crunchy and tender, again just slightly
sweet, and a
lively companion to the chicken.
The New York Medallions are seared to medium rare, edged with
black
pepper, and garnished with piquant horseradish gremolata. The
tender
slices of beef are well matched with thin squares of what is called
layered
potatoes. Paper-thin slices of potato are brushed with butter,
stacked
together and baked until they’re deep golden brown and crunchy,
with a
slightly chewy center. They were so good we were tempted to ask
for seconds.
Worthy of note is an excellent wine list to match the creative
menu. This is an excellent place to sample some wines you may
not find elsewhere. For about $8-11, you can enjoy one of 10 Tasting
Flights. Each flight is a triplet of 2 oz. portions of wines of
a single category, including region, grape varietal, or type.
Most all the wines on the extensive and well-chosen list are available
by the bottle or the glass. There is also a selection of sparkling
and dessert wines (either of which would be excellent with the
chef ’s satisfying desserts).
Speaking of desserts; while we were enjoying a banana cream
pie we
also observed some beautiful fresh fruit shortcakes and sorbets
arriving
at other tables. You may want to just plan a dinner of desserts
at this
place.
The only downside to this restaurant is that it is only open
for dinner. It is so good we’d eat three meals a day here.
The bar is open from 4 p.m. and the kitchen opens at 5 p.m. The
good news is that the kitchen remains open until at least 11 p.m.
on weeknights and until midnight on Saturday and Sunday, providing
one of the very few, and certainly one of the best options for
late evening dining.
FROM THE CRUSH KITCHEN
These recipes are from Chef Dan Aguilar,
a menu item at Crush
FIVE SPICE DUSTED AHI SALAD
1 lb Sushi-grade Ahi Tuna
1/4 Cup Chinese Five Spice
1 Jicama
2 Large Carrots
1 Bunch Green Onions
8 Oz Cooked Angel Hair Pasta
(cooled in ice water, drained)
1 tsp Sesame Seeds
Pinch Pickled Ginger
Sprinkle five spice around the entire ahi, then sear in a very
hot pan for 30 seconds on each side.
Slice the jicama and carrots into strips and dice the green onions.
In a bowl, combine jicama, carrots, green onions and chilled
pasta. Toss with a desired amount of spicy sesame dressing.
Slice the ahi into strips. Place the salad mixture in the middle
of the plate and fan ahi strips on top. Garnish with a sprinkle
of sesame seeds and pickled ginger.
SPICY SESAME DRESSING
4 Tbsp Minced Ginger
1/2 Cup Sugar
3/4 Cup Red Wine Vinegar
3/4 Tbsp Red Chili Flakes
1/2 Cup Sesame Oil
Place all ingredients except for the sesame oil in a food processor
or blender. Blend until creamy. Slowly pour in
the sesame oil while blending until incorporated. Serve over cold
pasta
and crisp vegetables.
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Epicurious Eating
Crush: Lively atmosphere and reasonably priced wines
by Frank Sabbatini - 6 March 2003
Read
the review on gay & lesbian times
Some might chalk it up to the post-gentrification of Hillcrest.
Others will revel in the terminally hip atmosphere that is Crush
— a new dining and drinking spot that boasts all the trappings
of a bustling downtown nightclub, albeit more intimate.
This prime little piece of Hillcrest real estate, formerly occupied
by The Nose, was recently transformed into a booming burrow of
music and cobalt-blue light, attracting an interesting ratio of
straight and gay folk who amicably rub elbows over distinctive
wines, trendy mixed drinks and gourmet meals.
Like The Nose before it, Crush’s atmosphere is a curious
combination of fine dining and spirited happy hour. A “crush”
of tall bar tables in the front half of the room hems in candle-lit
tables draped with white linens in the back. The milieu might
leave some wishing for a more uniform scheme — either a
place to party after eating dinner elsewhere or a full restaurant
that allows for audible conversation.
But it was a Friday night, and my dinner companion and I were
told that weekdays are geared for quieter supping. Needless to
say, we put ourselves into split mode, starting with a few libations
at the busy, attractive bar before hunkering down for dinner amid
a more subdued patronage in the rear.
Our “prelude” consisted of Stuffed Gorgonzola Dates,
prettied up with poached pear slices and spiced nuts. The dish
spurred a mixed reaction. My companion loved the interplay of
flavors between the pungent cheese and ultra-sweet fruit. Yet
neither a marriage nor conflict of flavor registered with me.
We directed greater attention to a unique soup, made with mustard
greens, spinach and crème fraiche. If you’ve ever
had a shot of juiced wheat grass, then you’ll know what
to expect because the two closely resemble each other. The soup,
however, is far more palatable because of its familiar “greens”
and rich creamy texture.
The menu doesn’t overwhelm with choices — a trusting
indication that quality control runs high. Among the six entrées
listed, my companion opted for Grilled New York Strip, cut into
tender medallions and served over delicious horseradish-whipped
potatoes. The meat is finished with Stilton cheese, which gives
great rise to its nicely charred edges and juicy center. The red-wine
démi glâce was excellent, too.
As the resounding, muffled beat of the music played on, I was
pleasantly distracted by the lovely delights on my plate —
Blue Nose Sea Bass and celery root mashed potatoes encircled with
warm grapefruit segments. The flaky fish glistened in lemon-caper
butter, which paired extremely well with the citrus offerings.
Kudos to Chef Colin MacLaggan, who trained at Cordon Bleu in
Europe, and injects fresh ambition into the restaurant’s
ever-changing menu. His other creations currently include Oven-Roasted
Pork Loin with Sweet Potato Gnocchi, Forest Mushroom Risotto and
Grilled Atlantic Salmon with Beluga Lentils.
Crush’s wine list is without boundaries — an inviting
roundup of “wild whites” and “racy reds”
that originate from all corners of the globe. There are over 60
to choose from, served by the glass, bottle or in various “wine
flights.” Prices are reasonable with the exception of hard-to-find
Canadian Icewine, which runs $22 a glass.
Our finale, however, arrived in the form of a brilliant dessert
— a baked apple filled with crème brulee and drizzled
with cider syrup. We gobbled it up like wolves, feeling too full
to reunite with the club-like tempo that was keeping the drinking
crowd happily rooted around the bar.
Crush is clearly two concepts in one — part gourmet restaurant
and part music-fueled cocktail joint. Whichever you choose, the
other remains in very close eyeshot. Those wishing the former
might wish to drop by on a more low-key weeknight, while those
wishing for a lively night out, should pop in on a Friday or Saturday
night. Versatile diners can enjoy Crush on any given night of
the week.
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THE GRAPE ESCAPE
Crush's great wine list, food and atmosphere lure Gaslamp types
to Hillcrest
By Jennifer Croshaw
FOR THE UNION-TRIBUNE
February 27, 2003
Read
the review at SignOnSanDiego.com
I've got a crush on Hillcrest's newest wine bar.
What's got me? Plush, lipstick-red and sky-colored pillows lining
a rear wall and an infinitely satisfying flourless chocolate cake
drizzled with sweet Cabernet syrup. It's also a ruby port I've
craved since the first magic drop touched my lips.
Crush is the object of my affection. Open since mid-December,
the University Avenue bar and restaurant has drawn curious neighborhood
locals and downtown stragglers looking to escape the Gaslamp's
thumping nightlife.
They've got good reason. With a creative drink selection to rival
the Quarter's best and a thoughtfully designed atmosphere, Crush
just may become a cocktail-crowd destination.
According to its owner, the bar-restaurant has been drawing "a
lot of people who would normally go out downtown but live in this
area and would rather just be somewhere close to home."
And unlike Hillcrest's numerous gay and lesbian bars and nightclubs,
Crush is a nightspot with no sexual preferences. Gay and straight
bargoers chill out and focus on what's really important: the wine.
Time to choose
From its Australian sauvignon blancs to a South African pinotage,
Crush's wine list spans the globe and forces tasters to try something
new. And with wines starting at $5 a glass, they don't have to
be afraid.
"We offer over 50 wines by the glass," said owner Cindy
Bartelli, who created the wine lists at downtown's Chive and the
Kensington Grill. Many of the wines are international or from
boutique, limited-production wineries, making them selections
"you don't see everywhere else or in the grocery store."
Can't decide between a Carneros pinot noir and a French rhone?
Try a flight, a grouping of three similar wines, to get a taste
of everything from international whites to bold California reds.
Flights range from $7 to $10, and weekly specials pair each wine
with a complementary bite of food.
Frisky cocktails such as the Prickly Pear and the Cuban Crime
of Passion martini can soothe the mixed-drink lover. Smooth ruby
ports and 20-year-old tawnies, along with dessert wines, cognacs
and scotches, beckon after dinner.
Even Guinness is on tap.
Although it's got the nightclub and neighborhood bar scenes covered,
Hillcrest doesn't have a lot to offer in the way of swanky cocktail
lounges. The Wine Lover is a high-end option, but without the
"nightlife" appeal. Open until 2 a.m. every night, Crush
decidedly fills the gap.
On any given night, Latin beats to ambient hip-hop enliven Crush's
minimalist-retro room, illuminated by hanging white orbs and University
Avenue's passing traffic. Halos of blue light filter through a
ceiling-high wall of PVC that serves double-duty as decor and
wine rack.
Unlike its dark, somewhat confined predecessor, the Nose, Crush
celebrates lightness and color with its roomy interior, pink-tinted
ceiling and merlot-colored floor, and navy-hued walls. Paintings
celebrating simplicity adorn the walls and ignite reflection.
Oenophiles and newbies can sit atop cool-blue high chairs as
their feet dangle – and most likely fall asleep, an unfortunate
side effect of style over comfort. Mosaic tile-topped tables fill
the entryway and line the windows along Crush's busy Hillcrest
front.
Weeknights at Crush don't, by any means, draw the masses. Weekends
are a different story, as groups gather 'round tables and late
arrivals scout out a place to perch. Service can be on the slow
side on busy nights, but it's never unfriendly.
And what's the crowd like at Crush? Ranging in age from 20 to
50, it seems more interested in the drink selection and the ability
to carry on a conversation without screaming than in hooking up.
The perfect pair
Crush doesn't just dabble in cocktails. Dinner is served nightly
and brunch every Sunday.
Concocted by chef Colin MacLaggin (formerly of Del Mar's Arterra),
Crush's dinner menu is more than a chance to eat – it's
a chance to pair. Although wine suggestions are not yet listed
on the menu, well-trained servers are up to the task of making
wine recommendations for menu items such as seared foie gras,
sea bass and Muscovy duck breast. Entrees start at $14.95.
Owner Bartelli is hoping to start monthly wine dinners soon,
pairing Crush's cuisine with selections from specific winemakers
or with wine suggestions from staffers at places such as downtown's
Wine Bank. Dinners may even focus on different regions or grapes.
Saturday wine tastings already are on the schedule.
This admirer has let out her secret. Next time you go, save me
a pillow-backed seat and a glass of Justin Obtuse ruby port.
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1/13/03
Funky Love
SD Reader
Cindy Bartelli was tired. Upon arriving in San Diego five years
ago, she spent two months as a server at the Kensington Grill
before taking over as general manager. Then, when the owner opened
Chive down in the Gaslamp, she began managing there as well. "I
kind of stepped away," she recalls. "I was really, maybe looking
to get out of the industry." Then she heard from a friend that
the Nose, a Hillcrest restaurant and wine bar, might be going
up for sale, and something sparked.
Bartelli hails from Chicago, but her interest in wine was born
in Kansas City. As a server and eventual manager at the Classic
Cup restaurant, she had studied under local wine guru Doug Frost,
a Master Sommelier and Master of Wine. As burned out as she was
on restaurants, she still had "a passion for the wine end of it,"
and the Nose proved too appealing to pass up. "Everything fit
into place. I adore Hillcrest. I like little neighborhood restaurants.
And it was kind of a no-brainer on location."
Well, almost. Hillcrest offers a wealth of foot traffic and
restaurant-friendly residents, but the restaurant, located on
the north side of University Avenue between Fifth and Sixth, manages
to remain somewhat isolated amid the bustle. Though she is flanked
by the Apparel Zone and Celadon Royal Thai, Bartelli says that
"everybody across the street said, 'You're going to have a hard
time.' There's just something about the foot traffic that stays
over there [on the south side of the street]."
She and co-owner Peter LaVecchia needed a big fat visual hook,
something to make people cross over. They found it in the brilliant
blue light that now emanates from the translucent panels behind
the bar, spiking out into the night through the raft of windows
that line the restaurant's front wall. Surrounding the backlit
panels are hundreds of lengths of stacked white PVC pipe, each
deep enough to hold a bottle of wine, though it is not Bartelli's
goal to fill them all. A few of the pipes are lit from within
by the same blue light as the bar, but overall, she wanted the
circular ends of staggered pipe to evoke a cluster of grapes.
"A friend of mine who is an interior designer came up with the
whole bar wall system," she grants, but professional design assistance
ended there. Creating the look "was a low-budget labor of love.
We spent a month ordering the pipe, cutting it, sanding it, cleaning
it. We did pretty much everything ourselves. We definitely felt
like, to get attention in this spot, we had to drastically change
the image. We wanted to do something with a little more energy,
a little more modern, a little more funky."
They got what they were after. Red floors lined with silver baseboards
give way to twilight blue walls and a radiating fuschia ceiling.
The back wall is silver, as are the powdercoated wrought-iron
chairs, which feature blue rubberized fabric on the seats. The
bar top is blue, the front is stainless steel, and the rail is
heavy-duty plumbing pipe. A friend covered the wooden tables with
mosaic tile; Bartelli built the banquettes and sewed the multicolored
pillow-backs.
"My experience -- just like down at Chive-- was that if you
did something that looked cool, that was enough to get them in
the door. Then if you were doing something of quality or something
[different from what] everybody else was doing, that was enough
to keep them coming back. The hardest part is getting them there."
The new restaurant/wine bar, now named Crush, opened on November
6 of last year, "and for the first couple of months, it was about
looking cool. It was a lot of bar business. Nobody cared that
we had a kitchen, nobody cared that we were doing wines. But that
only lasts so long. Now that we've got them in there, now that
we have an audience, we're really pushing the menu and the wines."
Since January 1, Crush has employed chef Colin MacLaggin, the
former executive sous chef at Arterra. The menu changes weekly.
The wine list, which also changes weekly, is geared toward the
interesting and the inexpensive. With the current grape glut in
California and the ever-increasing presence of good, cheap imported
wines, "You don't have to spend a lot of money to drink good wine."
Three-glass flights run between seven and ten dollars and include
such categories as "Ross" and "International Whites" (Australian
Marsanne, French Sauvignon Blanc, and Spanish Albarino) along
with standbys like California Chardonnay. "We try to offer flights
to pair with food. The ross go great with our duck confit and
with the scallops over risotto and braised artichokes. When I
pair a lot of whites with artichokes, I'm finding a really acidic
aftertaste, but the ros really handles it well." Glasses run between
5 and 12 dollars, with most coming in under 10 dollars; a limited
selection of bottles is also available.
Bartelli sees herself as a less-expensive complement to the Wine
Lover, situated a block or so away. They send bargain-hunters
her way; she sends people looking for more exalted offerings their
way. But after the Wine Lover closes for the night, she's it.
"This place is a ghost town at 10 p.m.," she marvels. "It's dark,
there is nobody open." When she arrived, she saw an untapped market.
"Not everybody goes to bed at 10. If you just count the people
getting off work at restaurants, that's huge. We serve food late,
until midnight, and we've got a really loyal group from Laurel
and the Prado and downtown. Even if people work down there, they're
usually heading this way, because this is where they live. They
come up the hill, they stop on their way home, and we're open."
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Eat IT: Crush!
January 31, 2003
Gloss Magazine
San Diego is a town ripe with great restaurants, Hillcrest is
a neighborhood that has more than it’s share—one recent
addition to the neighborhood, Crush stands out as a culinary hot
spot for San Diego’s hip, hilltop “Foodies.”
With a powerful wine list and cosmopolitan flair, Crush seems
more like a San Francisco’s neighborhood restaurant than
a San Diego’s corporate haunt. Interestingly enough, Chef
Colin MacLaggan joins Crush from Bradley Ogden’s Arterra
in Del Mar and delivers a fresh departure from the standard fare
offered in larger dining rooms. Crush offers a lasting impression
of MacLaggan’s interest in fusing the availability of Southern
California’s fruits and vegetables with a catch of local
seafood & meat’s into an affordable, well rounded selection
of appetizers, entrées and desserts.
The menu combines appetizer selections ranging from stuffed
dates with Gorgonzola and spiced nuts ($7), a selection of salads
($8-$9) to pan seared foie gras with watercress, quince and port
drizzle ($15) to dinner selections including pan roasted free-range
chicken ($16), oven roasted pork loin with sweet potato gnocchi
($18) to grilled flatiron steak with horseradish whipped potatoes
and roasted baby beets with red wine demi glace ($24). Most notably
we started with crispy duck breast with a root
vegetable salad and champagne vinaigrette, which seemed fruity
and light with sweet potatoes bringing an autumnal compliment
to the duck ($8). My guest enjoyed the grilled scallop ceviche
with papaya, mango and avocado ($10) but found the presentation
a bit distracting when served tall in an oversized martini glass.
For dinner, I was impressed with seared diver scallops with sweet
pea risotto and chardonnay braised artichoke hearts with mussel
essence ($19). Be cautious of your wine selections as the artichokes,
paired with the Roger Champault Sancerre made for an acidic aftertaste.
MacLaggan studied pastry in Europe and his dessert menu should
not be missed. We ordered pear tart ($7) with near perfect pastry
and a flourless chocolate cake ($7) with a gold medal texture
and a flavor that is, alone, worthy of a trip to Crush.
Crush replaces a wine/tapas bar and your first impressions as
you enter are that they have a significant commitment to their
former patrons—the dining room retains only half of the
restaurant’s square footage. Cindy Bartelli’s eclectic
collection of European and domestic wines offered as single pours,
flights or by the bottle which coupled with MacLaggan’s
menu makes Crush more a great place for conversation with friends
over wine and appetizers and less about an intimate evening out
for an elegant dinner. But make no mistake—the food is worth
a dining room reservation. I found the Crush staff to be knowledgeable,
warm and friendly. The dining experience is well priced for the
quality of food and for those interested in wine—or learning
about wine, Bartelli’s selections are unique and exciting.
Put Crush at the top of your list the next time you’re meeting
friends out for dinner.
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